Pa'akai Farming in Hanapepe

Broken Hearted!

Wow, it's beena long time since my last post.  I feel kind of bad that I haven't been posting but that doesn't mean that nothing has been done.  For the past couple of months I feel like a broken record trying to get the State and County to help with the cats and the homeless that are living in the salt patch.  It boggles my mind that with the amount of education I have done people still don't understand how the surrounding areas affect the salt patch.

Anyway, I go to salt pond once a week just to check out the current status.  Every time I go I get upset and get on the phone and call everyone I know.  This morning when I pass by around 10:30 there is the cat lady.  Feeding those cats in the boarder of our Salt Patch.  This time she had someone from the beach stop by and help her.  Wasn't that nice of them?  Then I drive over to the salt patch and in the other corner is a bunch of homeless people that have chosen to live in the salt patch area.  I have been complaining about the homeless living in the salt patch for about 4-5 months and nothing has been done.  I understand the homeless situation - i just wish they would live on the other side - not right in the salt patch. 

Okay so after I run into the cat lady and then the homeless - right next to that is about 5 cars parked on the sand.  Every time someone parks on the sand and drives off they take a little bit of the beach and with that comes the waves that wash into the salt patch and flood the patch.

My last stop is the party corner - this is the new hang out I guess.  At night on the weekends people go there to party and guess what they do.  Break bottles, leave trash, use the bathroom and leave the evidence. 

It breaks my heart.

So I drive off in tears.  So much disrespect for our island, our culture, our aina.  Our salt group can't stop fighting to stand up and help protect.  The State and County don't seem to be helping.  The local people who call Kauai Home turned a blind eye to the damage that is being caused daily.  There is people that think breaking glass bottles on a beach doesn't affect us.  I am at a loss for words.  I wish I had more time to battle all these things that cause damage to the salt pans. 

What do I need to do to make people understand?  We all cherish Pa'akai and yet we can't help to protect it.

Disappointed by not Surprised

So last night there was a meeting with the County's Open Space Commission at the Salt Pond Beach Park about expanding the Park.   What a night it was...... I got there in a good mood and I left fussy.

Before the meeting I had a chance to talk to Representative Dee Morikawa for H District 16 Niihau, Lehua, Koloa, Waimea.  I brought up 2 issues - first the homeless living in the Salt Patch and then the issues about the people driving on the sand.  I left that conversation with a distaste in my mouth.  She said I don't think it is illegal to drive on the sand on the west side of Kauai and that we should have a community meeting to discuss with the community what we the salt makers would like to do.  HUH?  When was a law created to only take care of 1/2 the island?  Did I miss that memo?

What I really don't understand is the Salt Makers have been making salt in that area for 100's of years - I would think if anything the Salt Makers would be able to make the decisions on what is best for that area and the community knowing how important pa'akai is to our culture would understand that the decisions we make are what is best to help protect the salt patch.  Not only that but it is the law not to drive on the beach so why do we as Salt Makers need to inforce that rule.  When did it become our job to stop people from doing things that they not supposed to.  Thats like asking us to stand on the road and stop cars that are using there cell phone.

Okay - so now that I am already fussy - meeting starts.  The commission explains there ideas to expand the beach park - they also enforce there main goal is to protect and preserve hawaiian culture and places.  Well then - the County can't even handle the park that is there now - from the leaky water pipes, over-following sewer, homeless, and cat problems and yet they want to expand so that the sewer can overflow faster - more homeless can move in - the cats can triple what they are now. HUMMMMMMM sounds like a great idea to me.  That doesn't sound like they meeting there goals.  Why not acquire the area and not do anything to it - let it sit as a buffer to protect the patches from the plantation.

Okay so I stated the case about the expansion of the park and County Council Members Kipu Kai and Mel Rapozo offered to stay and have a meeting about the issue's surrounding the salt patch.  Our State Representative leaves, she doesn't stick around to hear all the problems we face - mind you the Salt Patch sits on State Land - not even County Land.  But who stays for another 1 1/2 hour to listen to us bitch the County.  The Salt Patch is surround by State, County, Plantation, DOT and yet we can't get everyone in the same room at the same time to come up with a plan to help protect it.  Last night would have been great to be able to address our issues to both untities - but one runs away.

In the middle of all this - I bring up my favorite complaint - the cats - I think why I bring this up so much is because you all would think it would be an easy fix - yeah right.  Last night sitting in the big pavillion talking about these issues there was 12 cats hanging out with us.  12 nasty cats.  So I bring up the cats - you know what someone says - oh the cats are not a problem cause they control the rats.  WHAT??? REALLY???  There is about 100 cats living at the park in the salt beds and we don't have a cat problem.

Besides all of this - I got to fight with some members who say "Kuulei does not represent the Salt Makers so don't listen to her"  Well, last time I checked you weren't standing there fighting these issues so ALL of our future generations can enjoy this tradition and yet you want to sit in front of me and act like my issues are not valid? 

Our drainage system doesn't work.  We have homeless living in our salt beds.  We have 100 cats that we can't get rid of.  We have a sand bar that is fading away and not offering the protection it once did.  We have an airport that follows no rules or guidelines.  We have a crappy sewer system and water pipes that are breaking all the time.  We have the plantation that doesn't have any guildlines when it comes to BMPs.

You want to sit back and do nothing?  From our State Rep that can't sit another hour to listen to our complaints, to salt makers that would rather fight me because I talk to much, because I am not the right color, or because I was not raised correctly.

PLEASE I AM TIRED - I AM TIRED that I have to hold my tongue in front of you - that i can't call you all out - that you all think doing nothing is the solution.  That I need to respect a board that doesn't even follow the rules and guidelines my grandmother help create.  PLEASE  - I am on a mission and believe me being respectful to people that can't respect my mission has gone out the door...

 

eenie mini mine mo - what to do what to do

There are some big decisions that need to be made and I am at a cross road on what to do.  What some don't understand is that the salt patch is smack dab in the middle of every entity you can think of.  We have the DOT, DNLR, County, Plantation, and of course people.  Everyone of these entities does there part every day to do harm to the Salt Patch.  Here are some prime examples:

    1.    The asphalt the county dumped on state property that has damaged our drainage system

    2.    The airport that thinks it needs to back fill every time the water hits the fence line of the airport because they are affaird a terrorist might climb under the fence.

    3.    A colleny of cats and the people that care for them - because like they state they been there for 7 years.

    4.    A park that can't keep there water lines and cespool in working order.

    5.    People - people think they can live in the salt patch, throw their bottles and rubbish in the salt patch.

    6.    A hui that would rather fight against me becasue I wasn't raised good enough for them.

    7.    An airport that thinks flying over us is okay.  That all the dust they create is okay.

 Even though I have explained time and time again how important the salt patch is to our Culture, our History, our Hawaii I still get the same bullshit.   The same story - everyone is inspired until it's time to make some big decisions. 

I am at a cross road - i don't know where to go - i don't what to do.  I know what the big picture is but what road do I trust?  Do I show my cards just yet?  Or show some and hide the rest.......

Why is this so hard - why can't we all understand that culture can't survive unless people allow it to.  Why is it such a battle to protect.  I don't understand!

So without showing any of my cards and I am tossing a quarter in the air - heads or tails - county or state - who would you rather talk to - County - State - ennie mini mine mo...........

 

First Harvest of 2011

It truly has been a wet year - it is now September and we had our very first harvest for the year.  That is not normal, it sucks that their is a lot of salt makers that didn't even get 1 harvest in this year.  There are many factors that have effected the salt season this year and most blame the weather but you all know me - I blame it on a little more that but lets not get into that topic right now cause I am feeling the LOVE>>> LOL

Anyway, our salt ohana is made up of may different colors and ages.  All are welcome - I love to tell everyone that wants to help "please do cause the more people that come the less work I have to do".  Our salt ohana is made up of guys who have been there for 30 years and some who this year was there first year making salt.  Everyone has a job and every job is important.  From taking the kids swimming,  preparing the lunch, bringing the musbi's for breakfast, washing the salt, raking the salt.  Every job is valued.  I have been making salt with the same people for over 30 years and I appreciate the fact that no matter how crazy my family can be some times - they are they year after year.  Working hard, showing there support and love for the culture.  It takes a great team of people to work hard year after year.

Our days in the salt patch start at 7 am on Sundays and it is always on a Sunday.  Of course the work starts the day before - my father loads his truck - tent, tables, chairs, coolers, tools, baskets, buckets.  Every thing needed for the salt patch.  Back when I was younger the guys used to just park close and tie a tarp between two trucks - everyone sat on coolers and never need tables.... Today it is a production - 20x20 tent - green chairs - table w/ table clothes - water jugs to wash off.  After the salt patch me and my brother go to my dads house - wash everything with ajax and put everything away.

Harvesting Salt is a lot easier then the days of preparing the salt beds.  When we get down to the patch at 7 - tent needs to be put up - washing stations set up - drying tables for the salt that was just washed - it takes a lot of prep even before we start the process.  My father rakes each bed starting with the first layer - the whitest layer - the cream of the crop.  This is the stuff that is not passed out - this is the stuff that we salt makers hide - this is the stuff that I leave on my kitchen table.  This salt is washed maybe once and laid out to dry then put away.  It is time for the next later - a little red.  This is what is used for cooking, bbqs and this is the salt I trade for things.  This salt is washed a little bit more.  Next is the bottom layer - the stuff that is harder to wash - the stuff that you really gotta comb through to take out the little bugs.  This is where people get confused when they get it.  They think this is alae pa'akai.  It is not.  `Alaea Pa'akai has a real pretty red color to it.  `Alaea is the vain that runs through a mountain and is shaved into the salt for minerals.  I personally don't like my salt with the `Alaea in it but thats just me.  Anyway, this layer is also traded it is used for cooking and blessings.

Yesterday, when the salt was washed and when it came time to divide the salt - my father makes sure everyone that comes and helps is paid.  Paid with Pa'akai.  He makes sure that even if you are not there the day of the harvest you still get your share of Pa'akai.  No one is forgotten for their sweat.  Love it!

 

Enough is Enough - Please Repost on your Page

I woke up this morning and the first thing that came to mind was "enough is enough".  I had forgotten that my main focus is Protecting, Perpetuating, & Preserving Pa'akai farming in Hanapepe.  My goal was never to just bitch, moan, and cry.  Oops I got a little side tracked.

With that being said please hear me out and spread the word.  There are some things that we all can start doing to help protect the Salt Pans.  We need to remember the importance of our culture, of Pa'akai and what a precious gift it is to receive.  One thing we all all start to do is stop driving on the beach right by the salt pans.

I know that I used to be guilty of this before.  It was brought to my attention over the past year by our Kupuna and I have stopped and told my kids and my family to stop.  I didn't even think driving on the sand was an issue until it was explained how it affects the ponds. I understand how many local families love to pull right up on the sand and enjoy the beach I used to be just as guilty but PLEASE read the reasons this is affecting our salt pans. 

    1.    Every time you drive on the sand it lowers the sand dune's right there.  These sand dunes used to protect the patches from the high surf.  The sand dunes are extrememly low now and when the waves are big it flows over the sand and right into the salt patches.  With the issues we have with drainage the families in the back of the salt pans get flooded and are not able to make salt.

    2.    The sand from your tires travels and is starting to creep into the salt patch area.  If this sand gets into our clay we will not be able to make salt anymore.  We are extremely careful when we make Pa'akai not to go to the beach and then bring our sandy feet in the salt patch area.

    3.    It is against the law to drive on the sand (I hate to bring up this point but it is the truth)

You can still drive on the brown area just not on the white sand.  I ask that everyone that read my blog please pass this information on.  Education & Awareness is the Key. Spread the word and hopefully we can educate Kauai People that this is an important piece of our culture that needs to be protected.  WE ALL CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE....

 

HEAVY just HEAVY!~!

So many of my post are about my intentions.  About the real issues we face as salt makers.  I grew up in the Salt Patch every year for the past 30 years - listening to my father sit in there and complain.  Complain about the damages.  Complain about the entities surrounding the salt patch.  6 Years ago I couldn't take it anymore and I stood up and started to fight back.  I started talking to everyone that would listen and everyone that didn't want to listen.  I pushed, I emailed, I bothered, I taught, I educated.

There is a list of good that has come out of my fight.  Got the county to removed the asphalt they illegally dumped.  Got the State to remove the asphalt they placed in the area.  Shed light on the cat lady and the cat problem on Kauai.  Got the helicopter people to understand we are there and we will fight.  Got every entity to understand we are there - we are important and we will not allow you to cause us damage without backlash.  Got people to think "oh gotta check with the salt makers".  I   educated thousands of people on the importance of Hawaiian Salt, our culture, and the issues that surround the salt pans.  

I got the Hui to call there first meeting in about 30 years or maybe even longer and you use that meeting to call me out and not address any of our issues.  For you to say I wasn't raised correctly.  I don't respect correctly.  That I don't represent myself correctly.  That I make choices without a group behind me..... wow... rough...... For you to call everyone I have been fighting with and say I am not a "salt member" and hurt my reputation and damage everything I have worked so hard to protect is extremely low.

I will admit my heart is heavy... i don't know what my next step will be.  You didn't really break me but you made my heart sore.  Respect is earned not because of the position you hold, the color of your skin, the way to talk, how much money you have.  Respect is earned by the actions you take.  Respect is earned by standing up and fighting for your culture - your love for OUR island home. 

Below is a picture of the salt patches in 1988 - it doesn't look like this anymore... it will never look this good again.  There were no dust screens (we didn't need them)  the boundary was covered in salt - not any more - this year might be a no salt year.  Remember this picture the next time you stand in the salt pans.  Remember what the salt pans look like today.. in another couple of years there might be nothing left cause you choose to fight between salt makers instead of outside entities.

 

  

Hoʻomanaʻo aloha, to remember with affection

There is a reason I strive to stand in front and fight for what I believe to be right. It's not for the status, it's not for power, it's not to make me feel like I am better then then person standing next to me. It's simple my home is bigger then the four walls and the roof I live under. I love living in Hawaii. I love calling Kaua'i my home. I still can drive down the road and be in awe of everything I see. That means something.

My father was raised by a very talented Sweet Hawaiian Woman. She taught my dad the meaning of hard work, family, and respect. She was a woman that didn't complain but took care of what she needed to do without bothering anyone else. My father learned the same... love with a big heart and not complain just take care of your own. I grew up with my father complaining to us every summer about the salt patches falling apart, about how disrespectful people are. I was raised with the same theories that my dad had but I also have a bit of my mother in me. She is a strong women who speaks her mind when something is not right

So here we go.... me speaking my mind....

How can you of all people stand here in the middle of the salt patch, in the place that your family stood and be so disrespectful of our culture? Have you no shame? Where did your mana'o go? How do you expect me to stand here with a smile on my face and not blast you? Please!!! Mr. President you were elected to a position to protect, perpetuate, and preserve our culture and you have done nothing but sit on the side lines and watch it disappear. I have worked so hard for the past 6 years to give the salt makers a voice, to bring light to our culture, to bring spirit back to our hearts and you had to throw a power trip. Please, calling the State and County and saying don't listen to Kuulei because she is not a registered Salt Maker. WOW. 30 years of making salt and I am not a salt maker. I tried to do things the proper way. I have always made it extremly clear my intentions. The salt makers met - you were there - you were invited - we voted - you lost and you couldn't handle so you did the slimy move and played the backdoor route. You heard the complaints, you heard the reasons for our vote. The only salt maker that was against what we need done was you. Yes, I am young.

Yes, I do not know all the right ways. Yes I have no respect for a man that can stand there and do nothing but hide and hope the darkness will disappear. A man that hides behind a title that he has not earned. I have nothing to hide, I am a open book, I was willing to listen, willing to play your little game. You went to far - that backdoor a dirty way to play the game and I not in the mood. This is why we have lost so much of who we are and what we believe in because we forget to Hoʻomanaʻo aloha. REMEMBER WITH AFFECTION OUR PAST TO PRESERVE, PROTECT, & PERPETUATE OUR CULTURE FOR THE FUTURE~!! Here is a picture of my dad on the far right and my grandma right next to him in the salt patch's.

 

The Mo'olelo....my version

There are a couple of version of how Pa'akai got started in Hanepepe and this is the one that I go with...

Kia a young woman from Hanapepe often traveled to the shores of 'Ukula to fish and gather food from the sea.  One day, Kia caught to many fish, even after giving away portions of her catch to family, friends, and strangers.  She began to cry, feeling bad that she had taken far more then she had needed.

 

At that moment an elderly woman appeared to console her.  The woman took Kia's hand assuring her that she would help. "Come with me" she said and lead her to an area just beyond the beach.  She began to dig a pit in the ground until it filled up with water that came up from within the earth.  "Put your fish in here for a little while, then dry it out in the sun," the woman told her as she explained how the salt from the ocean spring would help preserve the rest of her catch.
 

Kia's crying subsided to a quiet stream of tears, she was grateful for the kind stranger.  The women gently wiped the salty tears from her face and placed them in a basin.
The old women in some story's is referred to as Pele.

Now I also like to mention that Pu'olo Point (shark's bay to the surfers) is know for having underground ocean lava tubes that enable sharks and other ocean creatures to find their way up to the fresh water area in Hanapepe Valley.  Pele's older brother, Kamohoali'i is a shark god and the navigator of her canoe.  He was known to frequent this upland retreat as a favorite place of residence whenever he visited Kauai.

 

So in end - Pele used to hang out at Pu'olo Point with Kamohoali'i who travel up the lava tubes to visit her.  The same lava tubes that bring water into the well.  There are a lot of interesting story of the area and most of them talk about Pele and her brother.

 

 

 

Trying to Stay With Rules and Traditions

Salt Season started and it has been a muddy start but at least we started.  The water in the wells haven't been salty so it might be a good month or so before the very first harvest.

Anyway, there are rules, basic rules.  We follow most of them but some are hard.  Rules to follow before you enter into the salt patch.  Here are a list of the ones I know off the top of my head

    1.    No Pets in the Salt Patch - funny this is a rule and we still can't get rid of the cat lady

    2.    No Food or Drinks in the Salt Patch - I don't really understand the drinks part of this rule.  For the most part we follow this one - but when it starts to get about 1 pm and the sun is beating down on you it starts to get hard not to have a bottle of water out there

    3.    Season starts when the Hui says and it starts with a potluck - don't think we have ever followed this rule.  I think it would be good to have all the hui get together and do a clean up followed by a pot luck.  Maybe that will be my goal for next year before the season starts.

    4.    Women with you ma'i (that time of the month) are to stay out.  I don't understand this rule and it is a hard one to follow.  I would so rather be working in the salt patch then sitting on the side lines because its that time of the month.

These are just a few of the rules that are actually written and supposed to be followed by all Hui Members.

Over the next few weeks my blog will go over the process of making salt from start to finish... hope you all enjoy

 

Beautiful Weekend

This weekend was a great weekend. Kumu Hula Johnny Lum Ho and his haumana came from the Big Island to learn the process of Hawaii Salt Making in Hanapepe. It is always an honor when people want to learn a piece of our culture. When people really want to experience what we get to experience every summer.

We have been planning this meeting for about 3 weeks. 2 weeks ago I called them I said I really don't know if we will be able to go into the salt patch - the weather has been so bad and the water doesn't seem to be flowing out. They said can't help the weather - we will just go over all the pictures and documents you have. I said perfect. The week they were coming it was storming - I think it stormed all the way until there plane landed on Kauai and I was so worried they wouldn't get to fully experience the salt patch.

Friday night the first night they were here we went over everything, videos, pictures, my outline. Everything I had to give a clear picture of what pa'akai farming entailed. My father wanted to show them more. So on Saturday my dad, uncle Blackie, and my bother went to the salt patch at 6 am to start pumping out the water and clean out the wells. They worked all day - no lunch - no breaks. They were determined to make our area ready for everyone to learn. Saturday night the thunder started again and I was so worried that all that hard work would be ruined if it started to pour again. Sunday morning at 7 am we got to the salt patch and it was beautiful. It didn't rain all weekend and although everything was still muddy and the walk to our patch was underwater we were able to teach them how to make salt. You can find pictues at http://www.facebook.com/hawaiipaakai.com.

 A really big thank you to My Dad, Unlce Blackie, and My Brother for all the hard work and dedication you put into showing others a piece of our tradition.